CJE Mini-Mission to Odessa: Reflections Day 2

Our tour in Odessa began on Tuesday, October 31st with a presentation on the current political and economic situation in Odessa and the surrounding region by Professor Sergii Glebov over a hearty lunch of salads and fish soup. Dr. Sergii Glebov is an Associate Professor and Dean of the School of International Relations at Odessa National University. He provided us an insightful and important overview that we kept referring back to throughout our visits. Population is declining, corruption is rampant, youth are choosing to study in Poland and elsewhere in the EU, yet Dr. Glebov remains cautiously optimistic that in time reforms will move the country forward in a positive direction.

Next stop on our itinerary was a visit to the Odessa Holocaust Museum with Director, Pavel Kozlenko. Compact and tucked away down an alley off the main street, the holocaust museum could easily be missed, especially by a tourist. There are very few signs in English in Odessa. Odessa's Holocaust museum is a tiny center of memory that pales, at least in terms of infrastructure and resources, in comparison to the museums and memorial installations we have come to know in our country, but the deeply personal exhibitions spread across the three cozy rooms on the second floor of this small center make a lasting impact. The museum is run by an Association of Past Nazi Victims & Holocaust Survivors, staffed entirely by volunteers, and receives no government funding; yet, still it desires to be, as its Director expressed, “on the map” of the Ukraine. Perhaps it will succeed as it opens its doors to many school children, and it cooperates with other Jewish and non-Jewish organizations in and beyond Odessa. It is clearly a project of devoted passion.

Next stop was a visit to the Odessa offices of the Joint Distribution Committee (JDC), housed in the Beit Grand JCC, to meet with representatives from various Jewish organizations in Odessa including from the two Jewish Community Centers (JCC) that serve Odessa, Jewish Agency for Israel (JAFI), the JDC, and several synagogue communities. It is clear that the professionals who staff these organizations are guided by a sincere interest in revitalizing the Jewish community and taking care of those in need. Their professional goals are quite similar to ours. We are all seeking to create interesting programs that engage and inspire. We all want to make sure our community’s needs are met and that all members of the community are treated with dignity. It is also clear how much the support of the Associated and its donors means to them. “Baltimore means everything to us,” the Missions manager of JDC Odessa, Inna Vdovichenko, remarked as everyone nodded in agreement. For me, in particular, it was such a pleasure to meet and brainstorm partnering ideas with Rabbi Julia Gris, the Rabbi of Shirat Hayam, the WUPJ (i.e., Reform) congregation in Odessa. They have an impressive, well-planned and vibrant program that includes a Shabbat school for all ages. I look forward to an ongoing relationship with my colleague and her community.

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Tuesday afternoon had us meeting with Shmuel Shpak and Iryna Gokhman from JAFI and learning about their broad impact on the Jewish community of Odessa and beyond. JAFI provides a wide array of programs to the Jewish community in Odessa especially to those just rediscovering their Jewish identity. Their activities include Sunday school, educational and leadership Initiatives for both adults and youth, Hebrew classes, camping programs, as well as Aliyah facilitation. It is impressive how many students – young and old - they reach! They reported close to 130 adult students in their Hebrew classes alone. A number of their young adult counselors joined our meeting and were eager to share their love of Israel and their passion for Jewish education. Finally, it was time to unwind and share impressions over a traditional Ukrainian meal.
A few common threads were already clear by day’s end: the pride in which all of the educators and community leaders in Odessa had over the programs they lead, the remarkable impact they make on the community, and the immense appreciation they have for the support they receive from Baltimore.

Enjoy some more pictures!

1) Our Hotel, Hotel Bristol. An example of some of the stunning architecture in Odessa.

2) A park gazebo en route to lunch

3) Traditional fish soup

4) Dr. Sergii Glebov

5) Entrance to Odessa's Holocaust Museum (founded in 2009)

6) Pavel Kozlenko, Director of Odessa's Holocaust Museum with Oksana Nelina who served as both guide and translator throughout our visit.

7) Glimpses into some of the exhibitions of the museum

8) A room dedicated to the Righteous Gentiles who worked to save Jews during WWII

9) The alley off which the Holocaust Museum sits

10) Entrance to the Beit Grand JCC where the Odessa offices of the JDC reside

11) Our visit with representatives from JAFI

12) Dinner with Inna Vdovichenko from the JDC.

13) Spotted at our hotel. Apparently, Americans aren't the only ones who celebrate Halloween